Sugar and skin ageing: What glycation has to do with wrinkles

Sugar is considered a problem for the hips and teeth. The fact that it also causes the skin to age is less well known – yet the mechanism behind it is surprisingly well understood. The key term is ‘glycation’: a silent chemical process that stiffens precisely those fibres that give the skin its elasticity.

What glycation actually is

Normally, the body utilises sugar in a targeted manner with the help of enzymes. However, if there is a persistent excess of glucose in the blood, a reaction occurs alongside this completely without enzymes Starting with: Sugar molecules attach themselves directly and uncontrollably to proteins. Through a series of intermediate steps, these „glycated“ proteins give rise to what are known as AGEs – Advanced glycation end-products. It is essentially the same chemical process that causes bread crusts to turn brown (the Maillard reaction) – only it takes place slowly, at body temperature and within the tissue.

Why the skin loses its elasticity in the process

Long-lived structural proteins are particularly vulnerable – and that is precisely what they are Collagen and elastin, the skin’s supporting structure. Because these fibres are hardly replaced over the years, AGEs have plenty of time to attach themselves to them and Cross-linking between the fibres. This cross-linking makes the originally elastic, flexible network stiff, brittle and less stretchy. The skin loses its elasticity and resilience – an effect that could be colloquially described as „sagging skin“. Danby (2010) identifies glycation as a key mechanism in skin ageing, which contributes to precisely this loss of elasticity.

What the research says on this

It is well documented in dermatology that AGEs play a key role in skin ageing. Gkogkolou & Böhm (2012) summarise how AGEs accumulate in ageing skin, where they not only impair the mechanical properties of the connective tissue but also disrupt cell functions. AGEs also bind to specific receptors (RAGE) and can, through this mechanism, Inflammatory processes trigger – and chronic, low-grade inflammation, which is caused, amongst other things, by the Gut-skin axis which is partly driven by this process, is in turn considered to accelerate skin ageing. This burden is exacerbated by external factors: heavily tanned, grilled or deep-fried foods already contain pre-formed AGEs, and UV radiation also promotes their formation in the skin.

The levers – how to take countermeasures

Glycation cannot be stopped, but its rate can be influenced. The approach is unspectacular and is in line with what is good for the skin anyway:

• Reducing sugar intake: Less free sugar, sugary drinks and fast-acting carbohydrates – these cause the biggest spike in blood sugar and thus provide the raw material for glycation.
• Eating a balanced diet: Vegetables, pulses, whole grains and protein help keep blood sugar levels more stable; antioxidants from plants help to counteract the formation of AGEs.
• Exercise: Exercise lowers blood sugar levels and improves insulin sensitivity – perhaps the most underestimated factor of all.
• Gentle cooking: Steaming, poaching or boiling, rather than searing or deep-frying, reduces the intake of AGEs.
• Get enough sleep: A lack of sleep impairs blood sugar regulation – a good night’s sleep indirectly helps to combat glycation.

To put it plainly: it’s the dose that makes the poison

Proportionality is key. A slice of cake won’t cause wrinkles, and glycation is a normal, unavoidable part of metabolism – everyone produces AGEs throughout their life. This isn’t about sugar panic, but about the Total dose over the years. Anyone who regularly consumes large amounts of free sugar provides more material for glycation; anyone who keeps it within reasonable limits slows down one of many factors contributing to ageing. This is because glycation is just one factor alongside UV radiation, genetics and simply the passage of time – it is not the only driver, and rarely the biggest one. To find out which other eating habits are harmful to the skin, see the 5 dietary mistakes; why the skin generally ages, as the background article explains.

Support from within

Once the fibres have already stiffened, there is little that can be done to reverse the process – which makes it all the more important to ensure a steady supply of intact building material. Collagen is constantly being remodelled, and for this the body needs building blocks as well as Vitamin C as an essential co-factor in collagen synthesis. The Bettervita Pro Active Advanced Liquid Collagen provides hydrolysed collagen peptides together with vitamin C – a practical way of supporting your health from within, which complements a low-sugar diet but does not replace it.

It is not a single spoonful of sugar that causes the skin to age, but the cumulative effect over the years. Glycation cannot be stopped – but it can be slowed down.